Azelaic Acid 10% Suspension Lotion: Full Formula Analysis

Formulation: Seppic — AS40296
Product Name: 10% Azelaic Acid Suspension Lotion
Claims: For redness and blemish-prone skin with a powdery finish
Process: Cold Process | Naturality: 81.1% (ISO 16128)

1. Concept & Skin Feel

This formulation targets blemish-prone, redness-sensitive skin. The key innovation lies in the polymer matrix: SEPIMAX ZEN™ and SEPINOV™ EMT 10 work together to deliver a fluid cream-gel texture that is both light and fresh while remaining non-sticky. The finish is characteristically powdery — a tactile benefit highly valued in Asian and Southeast Asian markets.

2. Hero Ingredients

Azelaic Acid (10%)

The star active. At 10%, azelaic acid is clinically proven for:

• Reducing post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH)
• Normalizing keratinocyte proliferation
• Providing gentle antimicrobial action against C. acnes
• Fading erythema associated with rosacea and acne

Formulated as a suspension (not fully dissolved), particles remain micro-fine to avoid grittiness while delivering efficacy. The 10% concentration is the sweet spot used in OTC-grade derma-cosmetics globally.

SEPIMAX ZEN™ (Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6) — 0.50%

Seppic’s next-generation emulsion stabilizer. Provides excellent thickening without residue. Key benefits:

• Suspension power for micro-particles (perfect for undissolved Azelaic Acid)
• Yield-value behavior: holds structure but spreads smoothly
• Compatible with electrolytes and acids (pH 4.0 compatible)

SEPINOV™ EMT 10 (Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer) — 0.10%

A thixotropic rheology modifier that complements SEPIMAX ZEN™. Provides smooth application and elegant skin feel with a powdery after-touch. Very low use level (0.10%) yet significant sensory impact.

EMOGREEN™ L19 (C15-19 Alkane) — 1.50%

A high-purity plant-based alkane derived from castor oil. Acts as a next-generation emollient replacing low-viscosity silicones. Delivers:

• Silky, flowing sensory profile
• Advanced skin-caring benefits
• Naturality-aligned with clean beauty trends (suitable for NATRUE/ECOCERT formulations)

Note: C15-19 Alkane is INCI-approved and widely accepted in EU, US, and Asian markets.

TALADVANCE™ (Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract) — 2.00%

Seppic’s ethically sourced Madagascar Centella asiatica extract. The modern “CICA hero plant” well-known in K-beauty and Asian markets. Benefits:

• Acts on skin homeostasis
• Respects skin circadian rhythm
• Anti-redness and skin-barrier support
• High asiaticoside / madecassoside content via Seppic’s proprietary extraction

3. Full Formula

4. Manufacturing Process (Cold Process)

1. Mix Phase A ingredients in a beaker
2. Disperse Phase B into Phase C; combine Phase A with Phase B+C
3. Mix Phase D, homogenize with Silverson at 4000 rpm for 10 minutes (or until uniform)
4. Add Phase D into Phase A+B+C; homogenize again at 4000 rpm for 4 minutes
5. Switch to anchor stirrer at 100 rpm; add Phase E ingredients one by one until uniform
6. Adjust pH to 4.0 with Phase F (Triethanolamine)

Key note: No heating required — this is a true cold process formulation, saving energy and protecting heat-sensitive actives like TALADVANCE™.

5. Specifications

• Aspect: White fluid cream gel
• pH: 4.0
• Viscosity (1M at RT): 7,500 mPa.s (Brookfield LVDV S62V6, spindle S62)
• Recovery after 1M at 45°C: 5,800 mPa.s — excellent thermal stability
• Stability: Passed M1 at RT, 4°C, 45°C, -18°C, and 30 freeze-thaw cycles (-5°C/+40°C)
• Centrifugation: Passed 3000 rpm, 30 minutes

6. Market Positioning

This formulation fits perfectly into the advanced whitening & anti-blemish research category for Southeast Asian markets:

• Clean Beauty: 81.1% naturality (ISO 16128), cold process, plant-based emollient
• Asian Consumer Preferences: Powdery, non-sticky finish; light texture — matches regional skincare preferences
• Derma-Cosmetic Claims: Clinical actives (10% Azelaic Acid) + CICA (Centella asiatica)
• Regulatory: Azelaic Acid 10% is widely approved as OTC in ASEAN, EU, and US markets
• Differentiation: Seppic proprietary ingredients (SEPIMAX ZEN™, TALADVANCE™) provide brandable differentiation

7. Formulation Notes

• Batch scale: Lab scale 300g (Silverson rotor-stator required)
• Scalability: Silverson homogenization is standard in cosmetic manufacturing — straightforward scale-up
• pH monitoring: Critical — adjust to 4.0 precisely; azelaic acid solubility changes with pH
• Azelaic Acid purity: Use pharmaceutical/cosmetic grade; particle size matters for skin feel
• Preservation: Hydroxyacetophenone + 1,2-Pentylene Glycol is a proven paraben-free system; challenge test recommended for target markets

Interested in technical collaboration on this formulation?
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